Illustrations: Jeju Island

We had a little love affair with Jeju Island last month. Jeju is a common tourist destination in South Korea and for good reason. It’s not until you leave the noisy, crowded streets of Seoul that you realize you’ve learned to tolerate a low, unrelenting clamor. In comparison, Jeju is tranquil and stunningly quiet. We watched the sunset almost every night to the sound of cicadas and crickets. It was my first time trying naeng guksu, a bowl of tender noodles in cold broth with slices of Jeju black pork and a sweet and sour vinegar tang. Jeju food tastes sweeter and more sour to me than other regional Korean food and I gobbled it all up.

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